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Showing posts with label Lists. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lists. Show all posts

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Surviving Tourist Prague

One of the great things about Statcounter.com is that as well as giving an overview of site traffic per day, visitor paths, keyword analysis etc etc, it also shows from which countries readers have visited your blog.

I initially assumed any readership that ‘Knedliky Etc’ managed to muster would be pretty much exclusively based in the Czech Republic, with the occasional UK IP from when my faithful mum and dad stop by to catch up on my culinary (mis)adventures.

In fact to my own surprise, only two thirds of my traffic in the event comes from the Czech Republic – the other third is made up by the UK and the US (about 20%), while the remainder of visitors hail from literally all over the world – I’ve had hits from as far-flung places as Kazakhstan, New Zealand, Uganda, Yemen, Denmark and Qatar, among others. I also seem to have attracted a small but loyal following in Latvia, for some reason.

It is a source of constant mystification to me how, out of all the pages on the world wide web, such visitors end up on ‘Knedliky Etc’ of all sites. Are they prospective tourists investigating dining possibilities for an impending trip? Former residents / expats simply taking a trip down memory lane? Or did they simply Google “sexy Czech babes food fetish” and somehow (much to their own disappointment, presumably) end up with me...?

Going on the assumption then that up to 25% of my readership may not be familiar with the Czech Republic, I thought I’d put together a quick rundown of a few decent budget places to go on the Prague tourist trail in the hope that it might help any future visitors avoid the usual tourist traps in the Old Town / Castle / Muzeum area. Neither list is comprehensive by any means, and additional recommendations for further culinary diamonds in the rough are, of course, always welcome!

The below are primarily recommended with brunch / lunch / coffee stops while on the sightseeing trail in mind – further recommendations in terms of evening wining and dining options around town can be found on my Prague Top Ten entry.

Old Town


Sorry to regular readers to keep banging on about this place, but I just love it so very very much... Not the cheapest bakery-café in Prague, but definitely one of the best and just a stone’s throw from Old Town Square to boot. My previous reviews / further photos of the place can be found here and here.



Also situated just off Old Town Square, Maitrea (along with its sister restaurant Lehka Hlava) is one of Prague’s most popular and vibrant vegetarian restaurants. With a varied menu and changing daily two-course lunch options for 108kč, this is a good bet if you’ve overdosed on the traditional meat and dumplings in your first few days in the Czech Republic and now fancy a change. My full review of the place can be found here.



Another veggie / vegan option just off Old Town Square is Country Life, a self-service bistro with attached wholefood shop on Melantrichova. You can pick and choose from the range of salads, soups, casseroles and lentil loaves etc on offer – a small plate is 75kč, a large 109kč.


Yuan Dong Sushi

A short walk from Old Town Square is Yuan Dong Japanese restaurant, which does pretty reasonably priced sushi platters, bento boxes and bowls of ramen noodles. Not the best Japanese to be had in Prague, but certainly some of the cheapest in the area.


Bohemia Bagel is something of a Prague institution. If you’re looking for gigantic bagels, American-style brunches, a decent burger, or just free refills on drinks, then this is the place to come. The Bohemia Bagel branch on Masná (just off Old Town Square) is most popular with tourists, but there are other locations about town in Malá Strana and Holešovice as well. More on the subject of best bagels to be had in Prague here.


Other Recommendations: Coffee Fellows / Beas / Govinda / Au Gourmand

Avoid like the plague: U Dvou koček / Terasa Hotel U Prince (terrible food, even worse service in both cases).

Muzeum


The area round Muzeum is pretty thin on the ground when it comes to good eats, but Dobrá Čajovna at Václavské Náměstí 14 is for me something of an oasis when it comes to sitting down for a nice cup of tea chosen from their biblical menu and a light bite of furikake (Japanese tea rice, rice prepared with green tea, seaweed, sesame, wasabi, dried tuna, soy sauce, pickled ginger and daikon radish) at 105kč, pita with sweet cheese and raisins or balkan cheese and roasted vegetables (75č / 105kč), baba ganoughe or houmous with 85kč, or simply a plate of pistachios, sesame seed biscuits, pumpkin seeds or crystalized ginger at 20 - 30kč per plate. I also highly recommend their Chai Chai Chai – truly a cure for all life’s ills.



At the upper end of Wenceslas Square is a gastronomic breath of fresh air in Half & Half, a half Mediterranean snack bar serving tasty gyros, pizza by the slice, generous portions of pasticcio and moussaka, and half confectionary serving ice-cream, medovnik and milkshakes. A small seating area is available upstairs. Brewsta does a full write up on the place here.



Not necessarily the cheapest lunch option available, but definitely one of the most tasty is Modrý Zub at Jindřišská 5 (another branch at Spálená 29 at Národní třída), which serves up a variety of noodles, Thai curries and soups, dim sum and sushi. Particular favourites for me are the Tom Kha Kai and beef Rendang curry. Another Brewsta write up on the place can be found here.


Paninoteca

This little hole in the wall on the corner of Vodičkova offers of a wide range of ciabatta and panini as well as sweet and savoury crêpes from about 59 – 89kč a pop. They also do ice-cream and a small range of cakes. No seating area available, but a good place for a quick and tasty bite on the hoof.


Wenceslas Square Sausage Stands

A sausage at Wenceslas square is a Prague rite of passage, and though it took me four years here to finally get round to it, I am now a true devotee of the Pražská klobása in particular. Full write-up of the many and various sausages available can be found here.


Other: Hallal fast-food curry / Au Gourmand / Boulevard Bageterie

Avoid like the plague: Mayur (overpriced and terrible “Indian” food) / anywhere that touts in florescent jackets or muttering about marijuana try to persuade you to frequent.

Castle Area


Though a little bit hit and miss in terms of service, Malý Buddha is still one of my top places in Prague and certainly one of the best bets in the otherwise tourist trap glut that is Hradčanská as a whole. Offering up a wide range of teas, fresh juices and Thai / Vietnamese fare in atmospheric environs, Malý Buddha is a true oasis from the tourist crowds and just a stone’s throw from the castle itself. Reservations definitely advised.



Not far from Malý Buddha is Gopál, a Hare Krishna run vegetarian Indian restaurant serving up tasty thalis at 150kč a pop, as well as barfi sweets and nice yogi / ginger tea. They also have an outdoor courtyard for sunny days.


Le Bistro Kampa

A short walk from the Castle area is Le Bistro Kampa, a delicious patisserie-café by Malostranská metro serving up a vast variety of croissants, cakes, crêpes, salads, sandwiches and baguettes. A nice spot for a light lunch and sit down on the way from Old Town up to the Castle or vice-versa.



I mention U Kocoura, situated at the bottom of Nerudová, mainly out of sentimental reasons, namely that my friends and I stopped in here on a weekend trip from Germany in 2001, where we were living as students at the time. As I recall, back then the place was packed with Czechs tucking into tasty stuffed meat dumplings and duck with sauerkraut for 99 – 150 odd crowns a meal, and you had to wait for a table at peak times. These days the prices sadly no longer fall within such modest a price range and the custom is seemingly 50/50 split between Czech and tourist, but out of sheer nostalgia I’m still going to tentatively recommend giving the place a go.



Being owned by the same people as the Bohemia Bagel franchise, it’s perhaps not surprising that the menu at U Malého Glena is dominated by tasty and generously portioned bagels, burgers and Tex Mex cuisine, with breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner options all available. The downstairs area of U Malého Glena hosts popular jazz evenings on Thursday, Fridays and weekends, which can be enjoyed with ten kinds of beer or a cocktail off their copious drinks list.


Other: Bohemia Bagel / Starbucks (if you can’t possibly go a holiday without your standard gande double-shot skinny Caffè Vanilla Frappuccino, that is).

Avoid like the plague: Anywhere with “Old Bohemia” and “Staročeský” in the name.

Ok, that’s as much as I can come up with for now – hope this is of help to any prospective visitors and, above all, have a good trip!!


Friday, July 30, 2010

Top Ten Prague Places

There are no facts, only interpretations” - Friedrich Nietzsche

As my blog mission statement is at pains to point out, I’m just a long-standing Prague expat who loves wining and dining. A lot. Culinary / literally / photographically speaking I’m by no means an expert – I just happen to photograph my food and type up an irreverent account of my dining experiences afterwards.

That said, for what it’s worth I thought I’d give a quick run of my personal gastronomic favourites in Prague – it’s been tough confining it to a top ten, but (in reverse order) here we go:

10. Chai Chai Chai at Dobra Čajovna

Dobra Čajovna is just one of many tea houses in Prague, but its creamy and comforting rendition of ‘Chai Chai Chai’ at 78kč makes it my personal best of the bunch. Dobra Čajovna’s expansive tea menu describes the drink as “a black Indian Assam tea simmered in milk and strongly sweetened. Served in a 0.2l glass with an interrupted shout of ‘chai chai chai’”. Consumed in Dobra Čajovna’s atmospheric environs on a cold winter’s day, Chai Chai Chai is my personal remedy to just about any problems life can through at you.



I’ve unfortunately not got round to doing a full review of this place yet, but with its funky interior and pan-Asian range of noodles and curries, the Noodle Bar is one of my top places for a casual lunch or dinner with the girls. I particularly love the phò bò (almost as good as the authentic Vietnamese article) and the Chiang Mai noodles here. A word of warning though: though officially open till 10pm, their kitchen closes seemingly at whim any time from 8.30pm onwards. If you couldn’t already tell, photo is property of noodle.cz.


8. Norsky Salat

Not so much a place as a food stuff I’ve only ever encountered in Prague, norsky salat constitutes my own personal equivalent to culinary crack. My staple of a solo cheap and chavvy night in is a plate of pasta topped with a pot’s worth of the stuff and accompanied by copious amounts of cheap wine and an episode of Corrie. Full review on the joys of norsky salat can be found here.



Alas, the one time I was taken to gourmet tasting restaurant La Degustation was way back in my pre-blog days, and I can’t afford to take myself again now. La Degustation is unique in Prague for its seven-course (plus various amuse-bouches) set tasting menus, either Czech or international (though you can mix and match). Carefully coordinated wine menus are also available to pair each main course, though as I recall their wine servings were decidedly on the stingy side. I’m not saying the La Degustation is extortionately expensive, but at the time I was actually living directly above the place in Prague 1, and dinner for two there cost more than my entire monthly rent. Needless to say, the bill wasn’t on me.



This backpacker-themed restaurant on Masarykovo nábřeží offers up a huge menu of Lebanese, Iraqi, Syrian and Indian dishes, as well as the occasional Czech eccentricity such as Canned Luncheon Meat with Bread served in a Mess-tin, Müsli Stick Flattened through Sitting Down on It, and Water from the Vltava. Karavan Seraj is justifiably popular based on the quality / variety of its cuisine and ambient surroundings – reservations to both here and its sister restaurant the Kardamon Club are definitely required. My full write-up on the place can be read here.



Curry in Prague is a controversial subject among expats – or at least us spice-mad British ones. Over the years I've been to been to Masala (started off good, but seemed to go off the boil lately), Tikka Dhaba (just plain weird, inauthentic food, possibly stoned waiter), Beas, Balarama and Govinda (all more canteen than restaurant though and usually only open when I’m at work), Tandoor (overrated), Chanchala (great dhosas and chai, but located in a shopping mall), Himalaya (good put pricey), the Indian Jewel (yet more costly), Khajuraho (just plain silly expensive), Haveli (good but out of the way), Mailsi (meh), Manni Pakistani (terrible), Dilli-Delhi (frozen vegetable travesty), Rasoi (shut down a couple of years back amid allegations of tax evasion, as I recall), and last but not least Rana (my hitherto pleasantly down-and-dingy favourite). Amidst all this masala mediocrity, the only place that has ever truly hit the spice spot for me is Curry House in Palmovka – my complete blog entry of the place can also be found here.



In one of my very early reviews, I jokingly referred to the fact that if I were ever to get hitched, it would have to be at Viniční Altán based solely on the fact that it was here two years ago I first realised me and Mr K were meant to be when he took me here on our fifth or so date for (an admittedly rather late) breakfast. Yes, that’s right – a vineyard for breakfast. Clearly we were destined to live together in happy co-dependent bliss until cirrhosis do us part. Now he’s officially popped the question (at Buckingham Palace two weeks ago, no less!), I think I will have to now start making official enquiries!! :-))))



These two superb patisserie-cafés get equal status here due to the fact that I genuinely couldn’t pick a favourite between them – it would simply feel like gastronomic infidelity to favour one over the other. My slightly tongue-in-cheek odes to my two true culinary loves can be read here and here, however.



2. V & R Imports (a.k.a. “Robert’s”)

Oh the good times that have been had at Robert’s over the last year, and the invariable embarrassment / regret / soon broken vows to never ever drink again that invariably ensue... Based in Karlin at Sokolovská 61, V & R Imports is an importer, distributor and retailer of fine wines (most of which have been personally sourced from vineyards across Europe and the New World) by Vera and Robert themselves (the "V" and "R" namesakes respectively). Lovely wines, nibbles galore, comfy sofas and guaranteed warm welcome make this place the drinking establishment of choice of myself, Mr K and all the girls alike. Maybe you are the type who can appreciate quality wine in civilized moderation. PragueGinge and I, sadly, cannot.



Hello, my name's Knedlikova and I'm a SaSaZu addict. Which is rather unfortunate for me really, as unlike all my other many and varied, comparatively inexpensive addictions (wine / kebabs / norsky salat / swimming / Coronation Street etc), without resorting to the usual junkie means of turning tricks, mugging little old ladies, botched corner shop robberies and the like, I can't afford to get my fix at this upmarket Asian restaurant / club situated in the somewhat incongruous surroundings of Holešovice flea market on more than a select few special occasions a year... The SaSaZu rolls in their many and varied varieties are like culinary crystal meth – one hit and you’re hooked for life... You can read more about SaSaZu’s range of addictive substances here.


And there you have it – my “official” top ten of Prague gastronomic hot-spots. In reality there are countless more that could just have easily have made the list – Kabul Karolina for Afghan, Lehka Hlava or Maitrea for funky vegetarian, Cantina for Mexican, Coffee Fellows for bagels, Luka Lu for Balkan, Kozička for stuffed dumplings and halušky, Kogo, Da Nico, Aromi, Artisan and La Bodeguita for special occasions and so on and so forth.

Anyway, hope someone out there finds the afore-mentioned top ten helpful, and in the meantime anyone else’s personal recommendations are always gratefully received!


Thursday, July 1, 2010

My Best... Quiche

I’m not sure where Czech menfolk stand on this particular issue, but most English blokes I know are very much of the opinion that “real men don’t eat quiche” (though when forced to will begrudgingly admit to actually rather liking it). I’ve occasionally tried convincing some of the men in my life otherwise, but as yet to no avail…

For those more open-minded flan-fans in Prague, however, here is - in reverse order - my quickie rundown of best places to find quiche in the city.

PAUL Patisserie

It is no secret that I am currently embroiled in an ongoing passionate love affair with Paul (both Flora and Anděl incarnations), tempered only for my equally as ardent dedication to fitness and physique.

Still, on occasion I might be persuaded to live a little and order one of their mini quiches for lunch, which come in various flavours (bacon and Emmental, salmon and spinach, cheese and tomato etc), each priced at around the 80 - 90kč mark.


My only gripe here is that it would be nice to have a salad garnish alongside, rather than having the quiche simply placed plain and unadorned on the plate as they do here – otherwise a tasty little lunchtime number, especially the quiche Lorraine variety.

Au Gourmand

One of my favourite quiche spots in Prague is Au Gourmand (various locations), yet another French-style café franchise which offers mini tarts and full-size quiches in a whole range of flavours, from tuna to tomato and mozzarella.




Prices are similar to those of Paul, as is the lack of salad accompaniment – back in my Dlouhá days I used to pop down the street and buy a slice to takeaway, which I’d then jazz up with a bit of healthy salad at home, clearly figuring that the vegetable addition helped make up for all the calories in the pastry at least...

Praha Bakeshop

The other main contender to my affections on the café front, to which I have also previously dedicated a blog-based ode, is of course my beloved Praha Bakeshop just off Old Town Square. However, when it comes to quiche (and come to that, croissants), I have to say that Praha Bakeshop has the edge on Paul for quality – if you’re willing to pay the price that is.




Praha Bakeshop quiches come in a tempting range of varieties (zucchini and Swiss, walnut and blue cheese, goat’s cheese and sun-blush tomato etc), but start off at a wallet-busting 225kč for a single slice, rising to up to about 1,000kč for an entire large quiche. Which, on reflection, is probably why I’ve only ever actually had quiche here twice – on both occasions splitting a mini goat’s cheese and tomato quiche at a hefty 250kč with a friend. It says a lot for the quality that I still place it on top of the list though, even despite the expense – and at the very least you finally get the hitherto elusive salad garnish for your money here...

And so ladies (and all you gentlemen already out of the quiche closet) there you have it – enjoy and a non-discriminatory happy quiche eating to all!


Saturday, June 5, 2010

My Best... Risotto

Well, if my last entry gave the impression that I am perhaps a distinctly less than accomplished cook, then please let me put that notion to rest with a run down of my best risotto recipes (my personal speciality).

Basically each of the below variants starts off with the same base (quantities serve 2):

Olive oil
1 small onion
1 garlic clove
2 glasses white wine
4oz (100g) arborio rice
Hot water

Heat the oil in a large pan and sauté the onion and garlic till tender. Add in the risotto rice and stir, then add the first glass of white wine to the pan. At this point commence personal consumption of second glass. Once the wine has been absorbed, start adding hot water bit by bit, stirring constantly until the water is absorbed each time. Continue until the rice is soft and tender and your arm is aching. Turn off the heat and add the additional ingredients as below:

Butternut Squash and Goat’s Cheese Risotto

On his last visit to the UK, Mr K was instructed on pain of pain to bring back a butternut squash (occasionally available in Tescos here, but not lately). While the risotto was cooking, I sautéed half the squash in butter with a handful of fresh thyme. Once the risotto base was ready, I basically just added the tender squash to the risotto, threw in a handful of soft goat’s cheese and pancetta, and served topped with parmesan and pine nuts (or at least would have done if I could have found any in Albert that day). Seriously yum.


Pesto and Goat’s Cheese Risotto

This is basically a variant of the similar pasta dish of the last entry. Basically it is just a case of bunging in a bunch of soft goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomatoes to the risotto at the last minute, stirring, and again serving topped with parmesan and pine nuts. Couldn’t be easier...


Salmon and Goat’s Cheese Risotto

Yes I know, I do put goat’s cheese in pretty much everything – it’s just that I really, really like it. For this risotto, I baked a large salmon fillet in tin foil in the oven for 20 minutes, then mashed it into the finished risotto with a handful of soft goat’s cheese. I also added a bit of stock and leek to the risotto while cooking for flavor. Serve with parmesan, pine nuts etc… I know it does look a bit suspiciously vomit-like this time, but trust me - it tastes nicer than it looks!


Mr K now declares himself officially sick of being used as a risotto guinea pig for blogging purposes, so next time I think it’s definitely his turn to cook (spag bog or chilli con carne it is then... ;-)) ).


Sunday, May 23, 2010

My Best... Croissants

Following on from my last bagel-related entry, I think it’s only right to give a shout out to Praha Bakeshop again on the basis of their croissants in all varieties, which collectively have spoiled me for all other croissants anywhere, forever, permanently.


Large, light, fresh, and available in butter, cheese and ham, chocolate, and apple varieties (varying from 55 – 70kč), Praha Bakeshop croissants are mine and Mr K's favourite way to kick off a lazy Sunday or Saturday afternoon, usually accompanied by a fresh orange juice for me (110kč) and a vanilla latte (97kč) for him. Bit on the pricey side maybe, but believe me every morsel is worth it!





I’ve also had salad combinations from their deli, houmous or tuna wraps from their sandwich section, as well their soups (Tuscan Bean and Pumpkin being two particular favourites) on occasion as well.



Unfortunately my experience with their cakes has so far been limited to staring longingly through the glass screen and wishing I had one of those enviable metabolisms whereby I could eat what I like and not have to keep myself in shape via strict calorie control and extreme exercise.


Put it this way, my love for this place is so utter and complete that when it came to making a decision to stay in my shared flat on the next street in the Old Town or moving to my own place in Holešovice, Praha Bakeshop was definitely taken into consideration as a very strong reason to stay put, and even two years on the ability to roll out of bed and into Praha Bakeshop for a morning brunch is still very sorely missed...


My Best... Bagels

In my first year in Prague, I had the privilege of living on a little side-street just off Old Town Square, which basically meant I not only lived at the heart of one of the most beautiful and historic cities of Europe, but also within the lesser-known “Bagel Triangle” that is Bohemia Bagel on Masná, Praha Bakeshop on Kozí, and last but not least Coffee Fellows directly on Dlouhá itself. As a result, after a year I considered myself an expert in all matters bagel related, and would like to just jot down my favourites (again in reverse order) here:

Praha Bakeshop

Oh, Praha Bakeshop, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways... More on that in my next entry, but right now we’re talking bagels. What I like about Praha Bakeshop is that they do traditional sourdough bagels (poppy, sesame, or onion at 35kč a pop), which are both deliciously dense and at the same time virtually impossible to eat in their entirety without feeling that you’ve swallowed a cannonball afterwards. I usually get some veggie cream cheese or smoked salmon spread from the deli counter to go with it (priced at 520kč/kg and 575kč/kg respectively). Very tasty, but be warned - if you have one for breakfast, don’t go making any appointments for lunch...




Bohemia Bagel

Back in the day, I ran the full gauntlet of Bohemia bagel varieties, both in terms of type / toppings (everything from spinach to wholewheat to chocolate chip) and fillings – usually either as a stomach liner before or after Bombay Bar and Coyotes, or hangover cure brunch the morning after... Annoyingly I never took any photos, but do recall that favourites at the time were chicken salad, sun-dried tomato and mozzarella, and pastrami and cheese (though admittedly was put permanently off the latter after polishing off a stomach busting whole one to myself, and consequently spending the rest of the day looking like I was about to give birth and genuinely wanting to die).



On the whole, however, I always found Bohemia Bagel just that little bit overrated (especially after later decamping to this entry’s winner), and actually hadn’t been back in about two years until for the purposes of review, I headed over to the Masná branch (for old time’s sake!) last week to grab a trusty ham & swiss on sesame (105kč). This bagel was packed to the rafters with sliced meat, cheese, tomato, lettuce, onion, mayo and mustard - good, but as usual with gargantuan Bohemia Bagel portion sizes, I was full after just one half...


Another day, I got a plain cinnamon and raisin (11kč) to go, which back home I lathered in my own shop-bought cream cheese – firstly because Bohemia Bagel are notoriously stingy with theirs, and secondly as I resent having to pay an additional 50kč for such a measly portion. Incidentally, this is also why I only ever once got the smoked salmon there, as 155kč was (in my humble opinion) pretty extortionate for basically nothing more than bread filled with just one tiny little slice of fish and a paltry scraping of cream cheese.


With branches at Holesoviče and Malá Strana as well as Old Town, all in all BB is a pretty good option for bagels in Prague, but in my humble opinion not a patch on...

Coffee Fellows


Without doubt this is my absolute favourite place for bagels in Prague. Yes, their menu is more limited and their bagels more modest (or from my point of view, manageable) in size, but their quality is just so much better – with generous fillings on a fresh salad base and warm, squishy bagels (warmed but not toasted) that just melt in your mouth... I headed there the other day for my absolute favourite, the smoked salmon on poppy seed bagel at a modest 70kč. Unlike Bohemia Bagel, Coffee Fellows is liberal with the salmon, and the sandwich as a whole simply tastes much more light and fresh.


Other flavours I used to love were turkey curry and mozzarella, and they also do a large range of tempting looking cakes and milkshakes.


And on a final note, is it me, or were the café owners pre-sentient Obama supporters??



Well, on the bagel front at any rate, all I can say is that when it comes to Coffee Fellows, it is most definitely a case of "Yes We Can!!!!".