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Showing posts with label French. Show all posts
Showing posts with label French. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

An Ode to Paul's...


At luncheon time in Flora,
There is but one place to be,
Chez toi, “tady” or “s sebou”,
Mon cher, Paul Patisserie.


As a rosbif, I should hate the French,
But I cannot tell a lie,
Your tartes, gâteaux and macaroons,
Are just too good to deny.




For me it’s your soups and salads,
Mr K - quiche, croissants, cake,
Oh! ‘Tis hard to be a woman,
In terms of calorie intake.




Of all your goodies sweet and savoury,
If I had to choose but one,
It would be the squishy, yummy loveliness,
Of your belle baguette de thon.


But your quality is costly,
Mon dieu! Mais non! Hélas!
Thank you Paul that in your goodness,
You at least take Gastropass.


You’ve another branch at Anděl,
Where I pop in quite a bit,
I hate to fault you, mon chéri,
But there’s nowhere here to sit...


Paul, my loyalties are divided,
Between Praha Bakeshop and you,
Let’s have a cake ménage a toi,
Thanks for reading, and adieu.


Wednesday, June 2, 2010

La Crêperie

Following on from our recent visit to newly opened French restaurant La Gare, the next morning Mr K and I decided to go for brunch at La Crêperie, a French-run café in Holešovice with a focus on savoury galettes and sweet crêpes. I used to come here quite often when I first moved to the neighbourhood, but somewhere along the line eventually got pancaked out, and gradually my visits tailed off altogether over a year ago.


The place had changed a lot since my last visit, with my personal favourite corner now being converted into a kiddies play area, and the old bar giving way to a new deli counter with a series of tasty looking olives, sausages, quiches, tarts and cakes all on display. I couldn’t swear to it, but I think they’d also given the place a paint job to lighten the place up (being a basement restaurant, it doesn’t get a lot of natural light). I personally liked the old dark and moody, child-unfriendly vibe better.

Mr K went for a ham, cheese and mushroom galette at 100kč.

Note no mushroom.

Being personally rather fooded out after visits to the Prague Food Festival and La Gare on two consecutive days, I plumped for a green salad with egg (99kč).

Note lack of egg.

The missing ingredients were rushed out a few minutes later on a separate plate.

An obvious 0/10 for presentation here.

Both of us were really disappointed with our food. To be fair on the galette, Mr K had been expecting a lighter, more crêpe-like dish rather than the dense buckwheat base he was presented with. My fault for not informing him earlier that this was how savoury galettes (as opposed to the sweet crêpes) here were supposed to be served. I had a bite and found it nice enough, though it needed more salt and pepper. That said, I was sorry to see they’d filled the customary mini-crêpe basket on the corner with cooked buckwheat rather than the piquant red cabbage (or was it beetroot? – either way, it was more aesthetically pleasing) I remembered.

My salad, however, was just all all wrong. In fact the photo makes it actually look better and brighter than it actually was, consisting as it did of just plain iceberg lettuce, under-ripe tomatoes, tired cucumber slices, and – most weirdly of all – slices of raw leek. I’d overlooked this particular ingredient on the menu when ordering, but even had I taken note, would have assumed the leek would be sautéed or something. As it was, I just put these chewy aberrations to the side. The stale brown packet bread on the side was likewise distinctly less than I would have expected for a place that prizes itself on its freshly baked cakes and quiches – a few slices of nice fresh French baguette would have been so much more appropriate here. In short, an absolute flop of a dish, with the one saving grace that they at least brought out balsamic vinegar and olive oil on the side. Good job I hadn’t really been all that hungry then, I suppose.

And then there was the service. La Crêperie clearly seeks to emulate all things French, up to and including the surliness of your stereotypical Parisian waiter. The po-faced waitress on duty took ages to bring the menus and take our orders, only then to disappear completely when it was time to pay the bill, which on top of the poor food really served to sour our opinion of La Crêperie as a whole.

Ah well, at least the coffee was good.

Still, I don’t like to base a bad review on an isolated visit (especially when I remember it as better in the past), so in the week I headed back in the evening for a solo follow-up.

I was really glad I’d given the place a second chance. This time round service was incomparably more friendly, personal and attentive, while with the lights dimmed, the place really seemed to recapture some of the cosy ambience of old. It being dinner rather than brunch time on this occasion, I opted for the baked galette with spinach puree topped with béchamel sauce and two kinds of cheese (110kč) with an additional filling of smoked ham (25kč). And it being after 6 o’ clock (the customary cut-off drinking time in the Knedliky household), a glass of wine was, needless to say, also in order – in this case a most passable vin de pays de Vaucluse at 42kč per 0,2l glass.

I really liked my baked galette, which I can only describe as a kind of pancake lasagna. Generously proportioned, amply filled and genuinely tasty (especially with the added smoky flavor of the ham), this was a million miles away from the paltry excuse for a salad they’d served up a couple of days before, and admittedly did go a long way towards redeeming La Crêperie in my (previously rather unforgiving) eyes. If I had to make one criticism, it would just be that the dish could perhaps have done with a more ample salad garnish than just a couple of slices of cucumber, but that is just my personal observation.



And as an aside, it wasn’t after all La Crêperie’s fault that the rather raucous family I had the misfortune to be seated next to inexplicably chose the new kiddy corner (rather than the perfectly good bathroom just a matter of meters away) to carry out a public nappy change on their accompanying spawn just inches from where other people (specifically, me) were eating. My friend and fellow blogger Prague Ginge ponders the differing concepts of boundaries between British and Czech cultures in more detail on her site, but surely I'm not so very unreasonable in assuming it should be a fairly universal concept to maintain a (preferably odour-resistant) partition between dinner and diapers – particularly in public dining establishments???? La Crêperie, please put up a sign or something…

Anyway, I digress. In summary, judging by other online reviews and the consistently high numbers of bums on seats at La Crêperie, I am evidently out-of-synch with Prague popular opinion in giving the place a distinctly less-than-glowing review. Perhaps I simply picked an off day or a non-representative dish on our initial visit, and admittedly the classic galettes (and judging by other people’s dessert plates, also the crêpes) are just as spot-on as ever. Stick to what they’re good at, and you’re pretty much guaranteed a tasty and inexpensive dish in laidback, atmospheric environs - just avoid the salad at any rate, and whatever you do, don’t sit next to kiddy’s corner…



Saturday, May 29, 2010

La Gare

A visit to newly-opened French brasserie La Gare yesterday marked my first foray into “formal” restaurant reviewing, and bloody hell is it tougher than it looks. In reality it’s actually not all that easy trying to balance discretely taking photos (without looking to the restaurant staff like some retard photo-obsessed tourist / Health & Safety department spy) with jotting down every single item you ordered / its price / what it tasted like to boot, rather than simply wolfing it down unreflected upon as usual, all the while trying to put up with Mr K spouting glib platitudes like, “Oh, the presentation is nice, sweetie, you could put that in”, and still retaining my cool on top of it all too (a task which on this occasion I unfortunately spectacularly failed to achieve). Suffice to say, I have a new-found respect for Brewsta, that’s for sure.

Occupying the long empty spot just off Namesti Republiky where Patriot X used to be, La Gare has (according to the waiter) only been open one week, and aims to dish up a variety of authentic Gallic cuisine cooked and served by mainly native French / French-speaking staff. It also has a small cheese and charcuterie shop in the side-section where, as I recall, Patriot X used to serve ice-cream. I was initially a bit confused as to why the place was called La Gare (train station) when their logo was clearly that of a rooster, until Mr K observantly pointed out their iconic train station clock at one side of the restaurant interior, which incidentally we both felt was very warm and inviting.




The menu is written in a slightly confusing mélange of French and Czech, and runs the usual Gallic gauntlet of meat, fish and poultry dishes (vegetarians aren’t catered for well here). I also spotted quiche, omelette and eggs Benedict on the menu, which I made a mental note of for potential new brunch spots. Speaking French (reasonably well) and Czech (ahem, not so well), I asked our francophone waiter to talk us through some of the menu items we couldn’t quite decipher for ourselves, which he did very comprehensibly. I for one was just grateful that I now knew not to order the tucek šneků...

To start with, we ordered the Hortala red wine from the Languedoc region, priced at 355kč, and a bottle of sparkling Badoit mineral water (also French) at 95kč. I normally prefer New World wines to French, but this one was very drinkable. As I recall, only French wines were featured on the menu.


A basket of freshly baked French baguette and salted butter was also brought to our table. I am not a fan of this kind of dry, chewy style bread (even when that’s how it’s supposed to be), but Mr K enjoyed it. This entailed a couvert charge of 35kč.


As a starter we shared the shrimp salad á la papa Bocuse (175kč). This came with six large, fresh shrimps on a bed of lettuce and citrus fruits. We both really enjoyed the shrimps, and to my surprise even the grapefruit (not normally my fruit of choice) was likewise quite sweet and not too overpowering here. For two people to share it was an ideal portion size – for one it may have been a little much.


As a main, Mr K went for the magret de canard au miel et quatre épices (195kč), while I opted for the rabbit cooked in red wine (155kč).



Of the two, I think Mr K made the better choice. His duck was tender on the inside with a crispy skin, and came in a sweet (but not cloying or sickly) sauce. My rabbit was also nice and generously portioned (on reflection that must have been one gigantic rabbit), being served in a hearty gravy and with the meat melting off the bone. I don’t get the chance to eat rabbit often, so this made for a welcome change.

The mains came with a side selection of carrots, asparagus and mashed potato, collectively priced at 85kč. From my point of view, the carrots and asparagus were slightly underdone, but that is perhaps only because I was raised in that renowned nation of culinary barbares (namely the United Kingdom), where we tend to boil our sprouts etc to within an inch of their lives before consuming. I have to say I loved the mashed potato though, which had a really nice garlicky taste to them with just a hint of sautéed bacon and onion.


La Gare does not have a dessert menu as such, but rather the waiter brings a selection to you on a plate and talks you through each one. We went for the one at the bottom of the picture (65kč), which in the absence of any concrete menu description I will simply term choc-chocaty-choc-choc-fudgy-marzipan-truffle-delight. If you couldn’t already tell from the description, we loved it... :-))



Finally, Mr K rounded off with a pleasant café au lait at 45kč.


All in all, we couldn’t really fault La Gare, which we felt offered up well-cooked, nicely presented (my concession here to Mr K – sorry we fell out) food at reasonable prices, with service / timing / ambience all pretty much spot on as well. It’s only a week in, but if La Gare continues to keep their game up to this standard, Monsieur K and I will definitely be coming back for more...