As a long-standing resident of Holešovice (not the trendy part east of the Argentinská tracks - the dingy bit next to Libeňský most), I have often wished for a decent mid-range restaurant in the neighbourhood to fill the gap between the sublime but unaffordable except on special occasions SaSaZu and the bog-standard pizzerias / čínský bistros that otherwise populate the area (the all-style-no-substance Molo 22 on U Průhonu just doesn't do it for me).
And so it was with interest that I first read Brewsta's review of Baterka on Delnička a few months back, and since then the place has become something of a local for me on those occasions when I just can't be bothered to venture more than five minutes in any direction beyond my own front door.
And clearly the rest of Holešovice feels the same way, or that's at least judging by the number of bums on seats on a nightly basis here (should point out that the below photo was taken on a lunchtime visit when it wasn't so busy).
I really like the bread they serve here with every meal, which is warm, dense, and spongy - in short, just how I like it.
On our first visit, Mr Smorgasbord went for the steak with spinach and sour cherry sauce.
This came very nicely presented, and Mr S claimed to enjoy the contrast of the juicy steak with the sharp fruit sauce.
As for me, I had to give the Maxi Burger (168 CZK) a try.
I have to agree with Brewsta's verdict on this one - the meat was fairly bland and uninspiring, the bun pretty dry, and the other fillings not particularly flavorsome either. I could also have done with a serious mustard / ketchup injection here, but maybe that's just condiment addict me.
More successful was the salmon with roasted vegetables and cous cous (245 CZK) on a subsequent solo visit.
The fish was very fresh and flavoursome, tinged on the outside and just ever so slightly on the rare side in the middle (which I like). I appreciated the wedges of lemon and lime to jazz the dish up a bit.
I also got a side salad (55 CZK) on this occasion - nothing particularly to write home about, but it did come served with balsamic and olive oil to dress it with. Once again I lamented the lack of fresh black pepper - my personal seasoning of choice.
On my latest visit, I stopped in for a quickie lunch of cream of spinach soup with smoked salmon and sour cream (45 CZK).
I actually thought this was fantastic - possibly the nicest thing I've tried from the menu yet. The soup was thick and tasty, and the flavour of the smoked salmon fillet infused nicely through the whole dish. It would have been too much for me as a starter, but with bread made for a nice and tasty light lunch.
Brewsta's conclusion on Baterka was that it was a welcome addition to the area, but not necessarily a place you'd bother to seek out if you don't live / work locally.
Falling into the latter category myself, I can only concur - Baterka (or "Torch" in Czech) may not be the best in terms of what Prague has to offer, but from a local point of view at any rate has certainly gone some way towards brightening up the otherwise dark and dismal dining options in my neck of the woods at the very least!
Dělnická 71
Prague 7
Phone: (+420) 266 711 185
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